Everything I eat in a day

People frequently ask me what I eat here in Laporiya, so I decided to document all the meals and drinks I consumed in 24 hours.

6am chai, expertly prepared my Mama. My favourite drink of the day.
8.30am breakfast- dhal (lentil curry), chatch (buttermilk), puri (deep fried flat bread), subgee (vegetables) from the night before, and poura (tasty deep friend sweet doughnut type snack). Prepared by Mama, my boss' wife, my aunty and a servant. Normally breakfast is two rotis and a vegetable dish, so this was quite an elaborate meal by comparison. I'm not sure what the occassion was.
11am chai. Prepared my me, but usually prepared by Sanju, the office cook, if she's not working in the field fufilling her other role as Health Supervisor.
1.30pm lunch- dhal, dahi (curd), 2 roti and poura. Generally it's the food prepared at breakfast, which Mama puts in my tiffin (stainless steel Indian lunchbox) so I can help myself.
2.45pm mango from my own personal supply. This wakes me up ready for work after my lunchtime nap.
4pm chai, prepared by Sanju.
7.30pm dinner- rice with a chickpea flour and buttermilk spicy sauce. Prepared by Mama, my boss' wife, and my aunty. Again, this meal is usually 2 roti and a vegetable dish. We rarely eat rice.
8.15pm freshly boiled cow milk, milk provided by our own cows, milked by mama and boiled on the chula (clay stove).

How to make Mama's chai

Chai is integral to Indian life, especially here in Laporiya, and from what I can work out, every cook has her (round here at least, it's usually a woman) own signature style of chai. Sanju, the office cook loves using lots of black pepper in her's, giving it a nice kick, whereas my new mum really goes all out for chini (sugar) leading to head rushes and gradual loss of teeth.

I've been here almost two weeks and still don't know how to make chai. In a bid for independance I asked Mama to show me the way. Remarkably she understood the word 'show' and was happy to abide.


Makes one cup

1. Take a medium saucepan and add half a cup of water and half a cup of milk.
2. Place on a medium to high heat and add 1 teaspoon of loose tea leaves.
3. Add sugar to taste. Mama would probably have put three teaspoons, I went for one.
4. Finely crush two dried cardoman pods in a pestel and mortar and add to the tea.
5. Once the mixure has heated through and starts to boil up, pour through a seive into your cup and serve.

Chai gets develops a thin skin almost instantly. Don't panic, just use your finger to move the skin to one side of the cup and enjoy.

20 things you didn't know about my new life in Laporiya village

1. Laxman Singh's grandfather used to be King of Laporiya and a few other villages. I'm living with him and his extended family. They see themselves as members of the Rajput caste, one of the major Hindu warrior groups in India.
2. There are 150 different species of birds. Some are very rare, and it's because of GVNML's conservation programme these birds thrive here.
3. It's very hot in Rajasthan this time of year. In the nights I usually sleep on a day bed outside because my room is too hot. There's not much light pollution here so you can see all the stars.
4. My bedroom is just off a big courtyard and used to be a communal bathroom. It's completley tiled and still has lots of taps in it.
5. Indian toilets are not like the ones back home in England. I'm gradually getting the hang of them and have given up using toilet paper.
6. If I want a shower in the evening it's best to fill a bucket early in the morning, otherwise the water in the tank on the roof gets so hot during the day it's almost boiling.
7. Everyone who lives in Laporiya loves roti, they eat it three times a day normally with one or two vegetable dishes. There is no rice here and wheat is definitely the staple food.
8. My NGO, GVNML is working with a UK development agency called Wells for India. Through their funding GVNML have built lots of new wells in the surrounding villages and spread their innovative chouka system, changing the livelihoods of hundreds of local people. The parents of the girl in the photo can now afford to send her to school, thanks to the crops (field behind) they are now growing on land irrigated by a new water system.
9. My new boss, Jagveer (Laxman's brother), is big on badminton and usually starts the day playing it on a court drawn in the dust in the car park. He's a lot better than me and said my serve was poor- must try harder!
10. Laporiya runs on hot, milky, sweet Chai. I normally get woken up with a cup of chai at 6.45am, prepared by the office cook, who is a sweet lady called Sanju but we have trouble communicating with my limited Hindi and her limited English.
11. Sanju does a mean cold coffee, but only in the afternoon once the freezer has been on for a few hours. I'd say it's better than Cafe Coffee Day.
12. Laxman's father, Ragunate, has a 'mistake in the head' I'm told. He's physically fit but I think he has alzheimers and sometimes shouts or thinks it's dinner time when it's morning, or forgets he has eaten.
13. Laxman has adopted me as his daughter, and says it's now his responsibility to find me a husband. He has joked that when Rob visits in August we will have a big Rajasthani wedding. I wonder whether it would be legally binding!
    
14. Ratan (my new sister) is getting married in November or December- she has only met her husband to be once but seems pretty smitten with him. They tell me that at Rajpoot parties there is drink and non veg (ie. Meat!). My new mother has promised I can wear one of her party dresses too.
15. Spare time in the day is usually spent hiding from the 100 degree heat, inside a dark room with the desert cooler on and perhaps an Indian soap on sky tv (every family in the house has their own box).
    
16. One of our dogs, Jacqui seems to be fighting a losing battle with his fleas. If you give him any attention he nuzzles and leans against you and won't leave you alone. People often have to rescue me from him. I have to be careful not to get bitten.
    
17. You soon get used to the electricity cuts here. It's on from 7pm to 6am, then 11am to 4pm. It becomes an event when the lights and fans work again.
18. Laxman's wife, Anand, is basically in charge of cooking. She doesn't buy 'market food' like bread or biscuits, here they mill their own wheat flour and make their own butter from milk from their own cows. Much of her day is focused on preparing food.
19. In India, what your name means is very important. Anand (Mum) means very fine; Pratab (younger brother) means king; Akshay (cousin) means always win and Laxmi (younger sister) means god of money. When they asked me what my name meant, unfortunately I couldn't remember.
20. My new mum gave me a Rajasthani dress of hers and my sister and cousin had great fun dressing me up in it and getting the scarf just so. See the picture for the final result.